A short history of weaving

Weaving is the primary means of making the fabrics we use in all walks of life. In simple terms weaving is a process in which two sets of threads, or yarns are interlaced at ninety degrees to each other to form a fabric or cloth. The long threads which run through the length are known as the warp, and the lattitudinal threads which run across and are interloccked by the warp are called the weft. It is the way in which the warp and weft are interwoven which give the fabric its characteristics. The most common styles of basic weaving are plain, twill and satin weave. There are many variations within each of these styles.

Most textiles are woven on a loom. In simple terms this is a device which holds the warp yarns in place while the weft, or filling threads are interlaced at right angles to them.

There is no doubt that weaving has been around for thousands of years and may even date back to the Paleolithic era. Fabric remnants though have been found in central Egypt and been positively dated back some 5,000 years into the Neolithic period.

Although there are many different styles of weaving they are all based on the same principals. For a simple plain weave every second longitudanal warp thread is pushed downward while the remaining threads are lifted upwards. A weft thread is passed between these raised and lowered warp threads and then the process is reversed. The lowered threads are lifted and the lifted threads lowered thus trapping the weft thread. The weft thread is then passed back across the warp and once again the process is reversed. As the warp threads are repeatedly lifted and lowered the weaver uses a beam to push or nestle the weft threads into position as the length of fabric grows.

Patterns are created within the weave by varying the warp threads which are raised or lowered. For instance the most common variation of a twill weave are plain, diamond or herring bone.

When I first started selling scarves I knew nothing about the structure of fabrics. It has been a steep learning curve but an enjoyable one. Thankfully our weaving co-operative in N India is headed by a Master Weaver whose skill and attention to detail are excellent and it is working with these people that makes our job such a pleasure..